Setting gemstones in a jewel is a true art. The Setting is characterized by a complex craftsmanship in which a stone is fit firmly in a metal to enhance its beauty and ensure the eternity of the work; makes it an artistic skill.
The goldsmiths of the sixteenth century introduced the art of mounting a silver foil on the bezel around the stone, giving the impression of a larger size and favoring the reflects and flashes of the stone; however, the Setting technique has evolved over time, ensuring that the piece does not suffer risks of damage or loss during the normal use of the jewel.
The Setting is one of the most delicate tasks of the goldsmith, who does his best to heighten the qualities of the stone; Furthermore, the goldsmith should be specialized and have an excellent sight to perfectly set the gems.
There are four ways to set a stone, Bezel Setting is the oldest and solid; this consists of folding metal over the stone, rounding it entirely up to the outer circumference of the gem and adjusting it against the crown; thus gets enclosed in a metal edge.
In the prong setting the stone is secured between the legs that make up the claw. This form allows the passage of light through the work piece, obtaining a great shine. It is used for many types of jewelry, but especially for crimping stones in solitaire rings. The claws have three, four or six legs, all of equal size and appearance.
Moreover, one of the most modern is grain setting. Its use allows to differentiate the stone from the metal, to better highlight it. The pieces of material that hold the piece, give it an appearance of small grains; the goldsmiths can make different designs and obtain a flashier jewel.
The invisible setting is done with the more complicated techniques; because the stones are positioned to metal with no space between them; providing a continuous surface. In this setting technique a small canal is make on the stone below the girdle to be slid by a guide that keep it in place.
There are many mineral suitable for setting, however, platinum and particularly diamond are the most ideal; but also other metals are treated for the same purpose as the yellow gold that provide a range of very cute contrasts.
The setting is the final harmony of a jewel, and is a technique to show its full beauty. Highlight the most of precious stones with the art of stone Setting!
this is incredible, all those jewels look like pieces of art made by the gods themselves…
Very interesting, did not even know what setting was… thank you